I'm Ghana go to Accra

Friday, October 10, 2008

How to Write About Africa

From Kenyan author and activist, Binyavanga Wainaina:
Always use the word ‘Africa or ‘Darkness’ or ‘Safari’ in your title. Subtitles may include the words ‘Zanzibar’, ‘Masai’, ‘Zulu’, ‘Zambezi’, ‘Congo’, ‘Nile’, ‘Big’, ‘Sky, ‘Shadow’, ‘Drum’, ‘Sun’ or ‘Bygone’. Also useful are words such as ‘Guerrillas’, ‘Timeless’, ‘Primordial’ and ‘Tribal’. Note that ‘People’ means Africans who are not black, while ‘The People’ means black Africans.

Never have a picture of a well-adjusted African on the cover of your book, or in it, unless that African has won the Nobel Prize. An AK-47, prominent ribs, naked breasts: use these. If you must include an African, make sure you get one in Masai or Zulu or Dogon dress.

In your text, treat Africa as if it were one country. It is hot and dusty with rolling grasslands and huge herds of animals and tall, thin people who are starving. Or it is hot and steamy with very short people who eat primates. Don’t get bogged down with precise descriptions. Africa is big: fifty-four countries, 900 million people who are too busy starving and dying and warring and emigrating to read your book. The continent is full of deserts, jungles, highlands, savannahs and many other things, but your reader doesn’t care about all that, so keep your descriptions romantic and evocative and unparticular.

Make sure you show how Africans have music and rhythm deep in their souls, and eat things no other humans eat. Do not mention rice and beef and wheat; monkey-brain is an African’s cuisine of choice, along with goat, snake, worms and grubs and all manner of game meat. Make sure you show that you are able to eat such food without flinching, and describe how you learn to enjoy it — because you care.

Taboo subjects: ordinary domestic scenes, love between Africans (unless a death is involved), references to African writers or intellectuals, mention of school-going children who are not suffering from yaws or Ebola fever or female genital mutilation.

Throughout the book, adopt a sotto voice, in conspiracy with the reader, and a sad I-expected-so-much tone. Establish early on that your liberalism is impeccable, and mention near the beginning how much you love Africa, how you fell in love with the place and can’t live without her. Africa is the only continent you can love — take advantage of this. If you are a man, thrust yourself into her warm virgin forests. If you are a woman, treat Africa as a man who wears a bush jacket and disappears off into the sunset. Africa is to be pitied, worshipped or dominated. Whichever angle you take, be sure to leave the strong impression that without your intervention and your important book, Africa is doomed.

Your African characters may include naked warriors, loyal servants, diviners and seers, ancient wise men living in hermitic splendour. Or corrupt politicians, inept polygamous travel-guides, and prostitutes you have slept with. The Loyal Servant always behaves like a seven-year-old and needs a firm hand; he is scared of snakes, good with children, and always involving you in his complex domestic dramas. The Ancient Wise Man always comes from a noble tribe (not the money-grubbing tribes like the Gikuyu, the Igbo or the Shona). He has rheumy eyes and is close to the Earth. The Modern African is a fat man who steals and works in the visa office, refusing to give work permits to qualified Westerners who really care about Africa. He is an enemy of development, always using his government job to make it difficult for pragmatic and good-hearted expats to set up NGOs or Legal Conservation Areas. Or he is an Oxford-educated intellectual turned serial-killing politician in a Savile Row suit. He is a cannibal who likes Cristal champagne, and his mother is a rich witch-doctor who really runs the country.

Among your characters you must always include The Starving African, who wanders the refugee camp nearly naked, and waits for the benevolence of the West. Her children have flies on their eyelids and pot bellies, and her breasts are flat and empty. She must look utterly helpless. She can have no past, no history; such diversions ruin the dramatic moment. Moans are good. She must never say anything about herself in the dialogue except to speak of her (unspeakable) suffering. Also be sure to include a warm and motherly woman who has a rolling laugh and who is concerned for your well-being. Just call her Mama. Her children are all delinquent. These characters should buzz around your main hero, making him look good. Your hero can teach them, bathe them, feed them; he carries lots of babies and has seen Death. Your hero is you (if reportage), or a beautiful, tragic international celebrity/aristocrat who now cares for animals (if fiction).

Bad Western characters may include children of Tory cabinet ministers, Afrikaners, employees of the World Bank. When talking about exploitation by foreigners mention the Chinese and Indian traders. Blame the West for Africa’s situation. But do not be too specific.

Broad brushstrokes throughout are good. Avoid having the African characters laugh, or struggle to educate their kids, or just make do in mundane circumstances. Have them illuminate something about Europe or America in Africa. African characters should be colourful, exotic, larger than life — but empty inside, with no dialogue, no conflicts or resolutions in their stories, no depth or quirks to confuse the cause.

Describe, in detail, naked breasts (young, old, conservative, recently raped, big, small) or mutilated genitals, or enhanced genitals. Or any kind of genitals. And dead bodies. Or, better, naked dead bodies. And especially rotting naked dead bodies. Remember, any work you submit in which people look filthy and miserable will be referred to as the ‘real Africa’, and you want that on your dust jacket. Do not feel queasy about this: you are trying to help them to get aid from the West. The biggest taboo in writing about Africa is to describe or show dead or suffering white people.

Animals, on the other hand, must be treated as well rounded, complex characters. They speak (or grunt while tossing their manes proudly) and have names, ambitions and desires. They also have family values: see how lions teach their children? Elephants are caring, and are good feminists or dignified patriarchs. So are gorillas. Never, ever say anything negative about an elephant or a gorilla. Elephants may attack people’s property, destroy their crops, and even kill them. Always take the side of the elephant. Big cats have public-school accents. Hyenas are fair game and have vaguely Middle Eastern accents. Any short Africans who live in the jungle or desert may be portrayed with good humour (unless they are in conflict with an elephant or chimpanzee or gorilla, in which case they are pure evil).

After celebrity activists and aid workers, conservationists are Africa’s most important people. Do not offend them. You need them to invite you to their 30,000-acre game ranch or ‘conservation area’, and this is the only way you will get to interview the celebrity activist. Often a book cover with a heroic-looking conservationist on it works magic for sales. Anybody white, tanned and wearing khaki who once had a pet antelope or a farm is a conservationist, one who is preserving Africa’s rich heritage. When interviewing him or her, do not ask how much funding they have; do not ask how much money they make off their game. Never ask how much they pay their employees.

Readers will be put off if you don’t mention the light in Africa. And sunsets, the African sunset is a must. It is always big and red. There is always a big sky. Wide empty spaces and game are critical — Africa is the Land of Wide Empty Spaces. When writing about the plight of flora and fauna, make sure you mention that Africa is overpopulated. When your main character is in a desert or jungle living with indigenous peoples (anybody short) it is okay to mention that Africa has been severely depopulated by Aids and War (use caps).

You’ll also need a nightclub called Tropicana, where mercenaries, evil nouveau riche Africans and prostitutes and guerrillas and expats hang out.

Always end your book with Nelson Mandela saying something about rainbows or renaissances. Because you care.

~Granta 92

Tuesday, February 27, 2007

T- minus 23 hours

And 6-months goes by just like that. Sad to leave, happy to come home, and grateful for the exerience, but right now I have to figure out how to cram 6 moths of accumalated souveniers into my two bags.

I am taking a long weekend in Amsterdam to meet up with Katie and Drew before heading home and am slightly terrified at the weather change. I intended to write a "final report" on my impressions of Africa and still will but it must wait until I get home. So please check the site in a week or so. Work has kept me busy until the last minute here. Even in Amsterdam, I am meeting with Child Helpline International to discuss with them the logistics of setting up a child helpline to provide free direct emergency care to the children of Accra....a side project I have been working on for the last month.

Thank you for all your comments, support, and reading along.

Saturday, February 17, 2007

On the Road Again

One month straight in Accra and the walls are beginning to close in. The traffic, the heat, the teeming masses yearning to call me Obruni all began to take its toll on me. I needed to get out of town, if even for a night so jay (my new roommate http://jaydavidson.blogspot.com), Rob, and I head to Akosambo, the sight of the Akosambo dam which consistently provides the entire country with six glorious days a week of electricity.

We’ve gotten to the point of understanding that the sights are interesting and often beautiful but the social interactions are what makes these trips memorable and Akosambo once again proved this to be the case.

Meet Mr. Cedi.



Mr. Cedi named himself after the local currency. He’s a very friendly man but I spent the majority of my time trying to avoid his hypnotic penetrating stare.

We stopped at his bead factory along the way and were treated to an interesting demonstration on how their glass beads are produced. The beads are made from recycled glass bottles and are refined, placed in molds, and heated in an open fire. Mr. Cedi just loves beads. He explained to us his passion for beads underneath a giant billboard instructing us to bead all that we can bead.















Meet Mrs. Brian:
So a group of schoolgirls coming home from church boarded our tro-tro and yada yada yada I got engaged. Rob started a brilliant rendition of ‘I want to see you my Fader’ a local favorite and the whole car rejoiced in song. Wedding is set for sometime this summer.


Meet Kofi. We were eating along the Volta River at a great little spot when a timid young boy paddled up to the nearby dock and began to patiently stare at us.


He looked terrified to approach us but I invited him to have a drink with us. The owner of the place got up to yell at him and I had to explain to him that he was our guest. Kofi ferries people up and down the river and we told him that we would come back tomorrow for a canoe ride. Sure enough he was there Sunday morning and we boarded his dug-out canoe.

It seemed that Kofi had enough paddling for the day because he handed the oar to me to shove us off from the shore. Kofi confidently directed us upstream and kept insisting we get our mast.



Our ‘mast’ turned out to be a bed-sheet hidden in a nearby tree. Kofi, our fearless captain sat in the front of our canoe anchoring the mast down with his feet while Rob stood, arms outstretched to cast out our sail and propel us along. I don’t know if the scheme worked and we may never find out of we looked inventive or dim-witted to the curious passer-bys.















Now meet giant Brian. People are short in Ghana....isn't that nice? Look how tiny this door was!!










Meet the women and children of bread junction. I’ve encountered this infamous junction twice before on my travels elsewhere in the Volta region and have always remembered it for its aggressive sellers who assault every passing car to try and get you to buy their shrimp, oysters, water, and of course bread. It’s the last stop before crossing the Volta River and a popular pit-stop for tro-tros to feed the traffic weary and hungry passengers. The last onslaught I experienced here I was damn near forced to buy bread when, with a brilliant sales pitch, a woman crawled in through the window and held a loaf in my lap until I was uncomfortable enough to hand her 5,000 cedis.

Rob and I gots to talking and devised an ingenious battle of might and will. We would join these fearless vendors. We will join them and sell bread. The stakes: boasting rights and swelling pride. The plan: buy bread from bread ladies, sell it at market price, give the revenue back to the bread ladies to buy even more bread, and the first one to sell three loaves is the winner. See if you can spot the Obruni in this pic:

It was difficult to explain our plan to the bread ladies so we opted to just start selling hoping that they would catch on. As we started to manically chase the passing tro-tros with the rest of the vendors I wondered if we were overstepping some sacred territorial boundary between these sellers. I imagined us getting stabbed with their shrimp skewers, pelted with sachets of water, and suffocated with big delicious bags of bread. A much more pleasant scenario developed as the bread ladies excitedly applauded our efforts. With Rob’s long arms and gift of gab I was the underdog. Every passing tro-tro and taxi was a potential sale and when the first car pulled into the junction I kicked Rob in the shins and flailed my arms as fought for position amongst the other ladies. I stuck my hand though the window and repeated my ingenious sales pitch of ‘bread bread bread bread 5,000 5,0000 5,000 5,000’ and was met by amusement and confusion to the marks riding the tro-tros. After uncomfortable persistence a lady bought my bread with a smile. I held my money like a trophy and the bread ladies rejoiced and danced with me. I quickly bought another loaf and waited for the next tro-tro to come.

Cunning I am not. Despite our best efforts, Rob and I failed to sell any more bread for the next twenty minutes. But then, a woman, possibly sensing my growing desperation, asked for two loaves of bread!!! I only had one loaf of bread with me and clouded in judgment from my success, I unwisely directed Rob to sell her the second loaf of bread. Instead of a 3-1 victory the score was tied at 2-2 and Rob finally sold his third bread before me. Rob pranced around the lot in victory and I am left eternally saddened by my ruinous error.

Meet two idiots who have lots of mosquitoes in their room. Our shoestring accommodation came with a complimentary swarm of mosquitoes. Unbeknownst to Rob, I filmed our attack on the flying intrusion and Rob has diligently uploaded the movie to youtube.com (despite the unorganized and lopsided photos that I didnt have the patience to fix look how tech savvy this blog has become!).



[Rob]The sound is delayed. Don't know why. Closed captioning is therefore supplied for the hearing impaired and unimpaired alike (reads far more dramatically than the reality, anyway):






Brian: Oh oh oh oh oh oh oh oh oh.
Rob: C’mon, track it, track it.
B: Oh oh oh oh oh.
R: I see it!
B: Over here!
R: Where?
(Slapping noise)
R: Did you get it?
B: I don’t know…maybe.
R: Too many shadows in the room…maybe…oh oh! It dive bombed passed me.
(Extended pause, followed by slapping)
R: I heard that fucker. Did I get it? I should have got that one. I don’t think I did…
(Laughter)
R: Oh oh oh…oh oh oh…over there.
B: Oh yeah, I just saw it.
R: Where? Where?
B: Oh!
(Slapping)
B: There’s two of them!
(Slapping)
B: Oh my god!
(More slapping)
R: I got ‘em, I got ‘em.
B: Dude, there’s three of them!
R: I got one.
B: There’s three of them. I just saw two more.
R: Ok Brian, they’re panicking because of the…the…the thing. They can’t handle it. They’re going insane. I killed one. Did you see? I killed one.
B: That was good.
R: And it hadn’t bitten us yet. That’s a victory…non-bloody ones.
B: Oh!
(Slapping, then laughter)
R: You had such form.
(Crosstalk)
R: I was quite impressed with it.
B: Shit. Oh….Oh!
(Slapping)
B: Aah! I got it. Nope.
R: Yeah, yeah. What’s that?
(Screaming)
R: What?
B: It was stuck in between my fingers.
(Laughter)
B: That was weird.
(More laughter)
B: Uck. That…I definitely got that one.
R: Ok, that’s only two, though. You said you saw…
B: Oh! Here’s another one! There’s one behind your head. Oh, there’s two of them! Shit. There’s two more…
(Slapping)
R: Oh! Oh, look at that!
B: Oh, there’s still two more. There’s one by the light…
R: Do you see this fucker? I’m just going to smash him into the wall a lot…
(Slapping)
R: It’s paste. I’ve made it paste. I’ve fallen…fallen into a rage. Did you see the paste? Ok, give us some more. Gimme…
B: There’s definitely another one or two.
(Crosstalk)
R: Oh! Right over your head! Right…oh two, two right over your head! One…there, there, there, there, there, there. Track it with me.
(Slapping)
R: Nope…missed it. Did I!?
B: Oh, there’s another one.
R: I got some on my finger…
B: Or maybe you can…get that one. It’s going for the light.
R: Where? Oh oh oh oh oh oh oh oh.
B: Fudge. Two of them.
(Slapping)
R: Oh look at the fan…look at the fan…(gasp)
(Slapping)
R: Oh oh oh oh!
(Slapping)
R: Aaaaaaaaagh!
B: Nice. There’s another one in here…
B + R: Oh!
(Crosstalk)
R: There’s one on the roof.
B: Fuck.
R: They’re not all mosquitoes…(laughter)…they’re…they’re not all mosquitoes, some of them are like…that’s a mosquito. You see him stuck on the roof?
B: Yeah.
R: Ok, he’s on the move again.
B: There’s a chair right there.
R: Watch him…oh…it’s moving. Keep him…don’t…if there’s others, we’re going to let them get away for a minute, this one is going down. I’m going to kill you…
(Laughter)

Sunday, January 21, 2007

The night I got The Fear.

A giant cockroach had me pinned against the bathroom wall and even though the little monster was at a safe distance away in the shower, I felt its tiny legs and tentacles crawl up my leg. Katie peered in through the doorway using the wall to shield her body in case the infestation decided to miraculously fly onto her face. Helpless, we just stared at the beast and tried to coax one another to rise above their squeamishness and squash the colossal bug. Finally, we agreed on a plan and Katie trapped the roach under the garbage can, its contents dumped on the floor, and I draped a towel over that to imprison our little intruder. We ran out of the bathroom arms flailing with the sound of my distinctively unman-like screaming reverberating in the room.

Glowing from our triumph over the insect, we valiantly agree to spend the next night camping out in the nearby rainforest at Kakum National Park. Late afternoon, we strut into the park and sit down at the aptly named Rain Forest Café to stuff ourselves full of yam balls before the restaurant and the park close at 5. The tourists clear out of the park with the setting sun and soon it’s just a Jew and a girl from the North Shore of Chicago facing the elements of the forest. Now the only patrons in the park, doubts begin to cloud my mind as the ranger points us to a dark path that leads to our campsite. He tells us that we are the only ones spending the night and hauntingly wishes us ‘good luck’.

We pause at the base of the trail before getting swallowed into the depths of the vines and trees and I gave Katie a look of encouragement that masked my desire to turn around. As I try to keep our sprits high by telling Katie how amazing it is to have the whole rainforest to ourselves tonight, a bearded man wearing a soiled shirt and tattered green shorts strode past us through the entrance. With swelling determination he walked up to a tree and began callously hacking at it with a machete with undeniable passion and no discernable purpose. I tried to ignore the ominous sight and pushed the thoughts of machete man out of my mind as we began our 15 minute hike into the forest to our camp sight. We didn’t speak of the hardhearted machete wielding man and I clung to the hope that Katie didn’t see him.

We raced the setting sun to set up our campsite. Three slim mattresses sitting on a platform six inches off the ground and covered with a mosquito net (with holes in it ineffectively patched with band-aids from past campers) awaited us. It was my idea to spend the night at the park, but as I was shaking the mattress off of all its dirt and animal droppings the best I could do was feign excitement for ‘roughing it’. The darker it became the louder the forest grew to be and when the canopy consumed the dying sun the noise was deafening.

There’s not much to do in the rainforest at night and we tried to pass the time by drinking from a flask of vodka. I make another comment about how fun this is and Katie doesn’t even humor me with a response. After passing the flask back and forth with no words spoken between us, I shed any notion that we are drinking socially. We are now just taking sips to dull our senses and rid ourselves from the paranoia that is beginning to mercilessly set in. It didn’t work, and Katie took solace underneath our sheets. It was so dark I couldn’t see my own hand in front of my face but I remained perched upright at the foot of our platform, face pressed up against the mosquito net, eyes crazily fixated on the emptiness of night.

I thought I’d be plagued by thoughts of spiders biting me and centipedes using all their tiny legs to march on my face or at least afraid of a warthog running through our camp or a Jaguar devouring us. But instead, with great intensity, I focused on even greater irrationalities. Katie and I seldom spoke and although there was no one around us for miles we communicated via cautious whispers. I continued my blind stare out our platform scrutinizing the darkness. The thoughts of the machete man paralyzed me. Every branch falling became his footsteps getting nearer, every gust of wind that rustled the trees was his mad search for us, and every move I made was potential to give away our position in the woods.

Refusing to turn on my flashlight I fumbled around for my bag in search of my Swiss Army knife. Machete man was out there dammit, and he is used to navigating around the forest in the darkness! With intense concentration I unzipped my bag one agonizing notch at a time. Katie broke our silence by asking what I was looking for and I was relieved that her question barely came across as a murmur. Unable to admit that I was searching for a knife to protect us from the imminent attack from a machete wielding maniac that she may have not even seen in the first place I lied and said I was looking for some mints.

She pleaded for me to lie down next to her and I reluctantly left my watching-post and curled up next to her. She didn’t say a word, only grabbed my hand and led it to her violently beating heart. She understands! I wanted to reveal my enduring torture. I wanted to tell her that we need a plan. I fought the urge to advise her that if something should happen we don’t think twice and leave our things behind to run through the forest towards the nearest road. That help would certainly arrive if we could just make it to the road. I wanted to ask if we should leave, if she had heard something or someone circling our bed. Did she see the crazy man when we entered the forest? Instead, I just rested my hand on her heart again and resented being put in a position of consoling when I was quite literally about to shit myself – too scared to venture out to the toilet 20 meters away.

Still, I tried to snap out of my downward spiral into insanity and assuage our fears with rational thought. “Katie, this is a government run park” I told her. “They wouldn’t let tourist sleep her if it wasn’t safe.” Shifting the attention away from murder, I added ‘there are no animals in here that can hurt us’.

Katie replied by pressing that we were in a rainforest in Africa and not Yellowstone National Park in Montana. “There aren’t exactly the same safety regulations, you see” she explained. She went on to point out that we were allowed a self guided tour at the government protected Ussher fort where we climbed crumbling stairs and walked along narrow balconies with the banisters long ago ripped off. She reminded me about looking through the abandoned fort’s kitchen and only upon our exit being warned not to enter that area because they are waiting for the roof to cave-in. “Besides, wasn’t that a government operated bus we were riding with no seatbelts and the cabin filled in with smoke and we nearly crashed.” Damn….she had a point.

It was unmistakable now. Something or someone was definitely slowly and calculatingly walking over the woodchips around our tent. I kept silent, thinking that if I didn’t confirm it with words than whatever was out there would remain some intangible harmless thought within my paranoid brain. Katie finally whispered, “Did you hear that?” I held her tighter with one arm and gripped my knife with the other. I tried to rationalize our situation with her by talking about war and how unjustifiably scared we were right now. I tried to philosophize about the stars and night to change the subject. Nothing worked to subdue the fear and I forced myself to sit up to resume my watch at the base of our bed.

And then it happened. In an instant, the depth of the forest illuminated with a greenish glow and after a brief moment the light collapsed on itself somewhere in the immeasurable distance. But for that fleeting moment, I could see everything surrounding us with great clarity. There was no machete man in the vicinity and the forest actually looked quite serene. With a dropped jaw, I concentrated my focus back out into the forest to try to fathom an explanation for the mysterious light. I turned to Katie and asked if she saw the strange sight, but she was burrowed underneath our sheets hiding from whatever was lurking around. She got up and like two crazed predators we stalked the night looking for the source of the light.

Moments later, we both see a contained glow in the near distance effortlessly and silently flying amongst the trees. The light seemed to be about the size of a large bird and a freakish glowing bird was just what I thought it was. And then the light flickered and disappeared.

We grabbed each other’s arm and helplessly sat there. We didn’t dare move. After a few endless minutes the light came back and maneuvered around right in front of us! It changed directions back and forth so much that I ruled out any chance of it being a bird. Soon after, the bastard began circling our campsite and Katie insists that it rested right on top of our roof. For some reason I can terrify myself with far fetched ideas of murdering jungle men but when a mysterious and unidentifiable glowing orb is circling me in the middle of the rainforest I just find it oddly peaceful.

When we were confident it had finally left I softly exclaimed to Katie, “Wow! We just saw an alien!” unnecessarily adding a new element of horror into our evening. With an almost fanatical conviction, Katie contended that it wasn’t an alien but was in fact a spirit. She explained that the spirit was most likely from the two slave castles we had visited that weekend no more than 30 miles away. If anywhere was to be possessed with lost spirits it would be those damn slave castles and the long treacherous trail it took to get there.

Slowly the forest turned on me once again and any incongruent sound enraptured me. Orbs of light and machetes were too much to handle in the rainforest alone. I reached into my bag of tricks and fed Xanax to me and Katie that I had to knock myself out on the plane and we finally submitted to sleep. We woke up early the next morning and I checked to see if I was wearing the same clothes or if my butt hurt and any other signs of alien abduction. Sure enough the ranger came for our 7am appointment for our guided hike confirming at least that time has elapsed as it should. I asked him if there was any animal in the forest that could produce such a glow and he just shrugged and showed me what a cocoa plant looks like.

One of the perks of sleeping in Kakum is that you get private access to the famed canopy walk before the park even opens. The walk consists of several long bridges suspended high above the forest canopy allowing a unique view of the woods from above. I had done the tour months earlier with Liz and Laura and the ranger then gave a long speech about safety. He reassured the group by enumerating all the regulations and explained that a ranger inspects the bridges first thing every

morning to ensure everyone’s safety.

Well, our guide had to unlock the entrance to the canopy so we knew we were the first ones there. Then, he tells us he has to go unlock the exit and he’ll meet us on one of the suspended platforms in the middle. I just laughed and took the responsibility of checking for the bridges durability by jumping up and down on each walkway. It was secure. We stood on platform number 3 and watched for monkeys. Our frustrated guide told us that he knew they were around, but they were being stubborn. ‘Look, you’re standing in their feces right now’, he cheerfully pointed out.

We never did see any monkeys and I was just happy to have survived. Katie and I gratefully left the park and visited an alligator sanctuary where we had breakfast and talked about how crazy and pathetic we had been the night before.

We continued on our trip heading further west along the coast and were back in Accra on January 6th to celebrate Aaron’s birthday with his family who were visiting. Sitting at the dinner table we try to explain to Marta and Rob how terrifying our ordeal was since they had recently recommended it to us and billed it as the best sleep they had in Ghana. The table seemed interested in our forest episode and after a series of prodding we reluctantly revealed our sighting of the mysterious orb of light. Aaron, who had visited the park a couple of weekends prior, passed around a picture he had taken which gave us the chills. The picture was of a plaque that was displayed in the small children museum in the ranger station.

It reads: The mysterious mmoatia


A flickering light in the distance or a whistling sound may signal the presence of the mmoatia, one of the best-known forest spirits. With their black, red, or white coloring, and feet pointing backward, these foot-tall dwarfs will make mischief with unwary travelers.

Be it light, aliens, spirits, or foot-tall dwarfs – I am never going back to Kakum National Park.

Friday, January 19, 2007

Da Trip

You didn’t ask for it but here’s a day by day description of my holiday trip.

15th – I learned a valuable lesson while I was in a rush to pick Katie up at the airport: Don’t tell cabdrivers you’ll dash them more money to go faster. Stoplights were a mere afterthought and lines of traffic were bypassed on narrow dirt shoulders which was almost as disconcerting as the driver’s manic laugh. I got there in record time and then promptly waited 3 hours for the delayed flight.

16th – Katie confessed that she is afraid of Ghana and made me promise that I would never leave her side.

Toured the Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum (first president of Ghana) which remains to be the only relaxing open green space in Accra and thus a haven for wedding photo opportunities. I got to see a bride spit which for some reason is still a noteworthy experience. If you ever wanted to view Nkrumah’s old mattress or see your own reflection in the wall mirror that he had in college than the attached museum is a must see.


We visited Ussher Fort which began as a slave trading post and later was converted into a prison that has housed three former presidents. Seeped in more history than Alcatrez you can be free to wander the premises, climb the disintegrating staircases, and investigate the dated cells with a dollar tip to the watchman. Last time I was ushered into the fort by a random man on the street who gave us a tour that he seemingly made up as he went along. I did the same for Katie.

17th – . While there are plenty of things to experience in Accra there aren’t many things to do from a tourist’s perspective. Nevertheless, we went across town to climb an old unused lighthouse that offers stunning views of people bathing in their unroofed showers. Our 'guide' shown on the left.

18th- Brought Katie to the crèche and the cute and friendly kids seemed to assuage Katie’s fears of Ghana. Katie went though proper initiation rights by being peed on. My co-workers were truly excited to meet her and with standard Ghanaian friendliness they embraced her with hugs and enthusiastic smiles and welcomed her to their country. People don’t seem to grasp the idea of a ‘girlfriend’ here so for the rest of the trip Katie becomes my fiancé or wife.

Katie meets my friends for the first time at dinner and spends the evening pouring drinks out of a flask for herself under the table. She is the only one to get drunk.

19th - Went to Creche again that day for the last time in the year. Finished packing and took a bus to Kumasi, the second largest city in Ghana. Katie fell asleep and drooled so much on my lap that it made it look like I pissed myself. I was too embarrassed to get up during the bathroom stop and nearly pissed myself. Arrive late at night in Kumasi. Katie gets first mosquito bite.

20th – The first thing I had to do in Kumasi was secure bus tickets to leave the city and travel further north. Arriving at the bus station, I took my place in line behind a lurch-like Obruni who was traveling to the same place. Due to the holiday season tickets were sold out for the entire week…eep. Katie, Lurch, and I join forces and hail a taxi and go to a different bus station where we encountered a police checkpoint where the lawmen find something afoul if it suits them. In a city where people cram 8 people into a taxi, traffic lanes are merely a suggestion, and going as fast as the road allows is the practiced speed limit our driver was cited for not wearing proper foot attire (sandals instead of boots). Our driver grabbed a fistful of bills and left to plead for sympathy. Just as fast, a stern policeman sat at the driver’s seat and bluntly said ‘your driver has been arrested. Where would you like to go?’ Before the policeman could drive us away the driver escaped arrest with a 30,000 cedis bribe. In the end, we couldn’t buy tickets for the bus till the next morning anyway.

Next, we walked through the largest market in West Africa looking for nothing in particular. This was like a small claustrophobic city divided into sections of stalls where everyone sold exactly the same thing. Maybe it was because we got lost in the shoe polishing area and inadvertently got high off the fumes but we found it nearly impossible to find our way out of the sprawling vendors.

A kind man walked us for 20 minutes to the cultural center where they have a lot of curios made by local artists. The cultural center in Kumasi is what the cultural center in Accra would be if all the vendors took massive doses of pain killers. I enjoyed the passiveness and indifference displayed towards us so much that I bought a painting.

Visited an old English fort that was converted to a military museum and housed an odd and eclectic collection of weapons acquired by Ghanaian military in their various campaigns including the crude weapons used in the Rwandan genocide. The exhibit also proudly displayed a soldier’s ration pack from the Ghanaian tour in Burma which the soldier apparently saved and lugged though battle for the duration of the war and left uneaten, surviving on snakes and bamboo shoots because he found the ration pack that interesting. When the man returned home safely he discovered his love of hats and began collecting what would soon be the world’s largest collection, putting him in the Guinness Book of World Records and making him the ‘world’s coolest person’ according to Rob. It was a great tour except that the curator periodically quizzed us to make sure we understood what was going on. We never really understand what is going on and were shamed out of the museum.

Back at our hostel one of the employees had a crush on Katie. Desperate to see her, he knocked on our door at 11:00 to hand us a complimentary roll of toilet paper. Thoroughly sketched out, we locked the door and went to bed.

21st – Woke up to the pitter patter of rain but it turned out to be the bathroom leaking. Katie and I opted to charter our very own tro-tro to take us directly to Mole National Park with lurch and two other Americans that we had met the previous day effectively saving us an entire day of traveling with public transport. The farther north we went the more rural, drier, dusty, and bumpy it became. Six hours into our trip with only 2 more to go our tro-tro had to stop for crossing cattle and stubbornly refused to start. Little Miss Sunshinesque we had to push the van until it was able to shift gears and one by one hop into the tro. We had to stop in the next village which allowed us to take a picture of this man so all was not lost.

Since we arrived at the park a night early we did not have reservations and unfortunately the place was packed. Instead of leaving defeated we just stood there for an hour looking sad and depressed until they would accommodate us. As it turns out, they cleared a storage room out for us and laid mattresses on the bed for the five us.

The first night, in a series of bloodthirsty nights, for the love affair between Katie and the mosquitoes. Bite count after the night: 65

22nd – Woke up at 6am to depart on a walking safari through the park! Probably the best deal in Ghana, a two hour tour where you are guaranteed to at least step in some elephant poop cost us a little over a dollar each. Everyone in our ten person group seemed to get swept up in the excitement of the safari and all tried to walk as stealthy and quiet as possible. However, our guide’s cell phone kept ringing and he picked it up every time for extended explanations about why he can’t talk on the phone. Despite the intrusions, we saw warthogs, alligators, baboons, antelope, and a bunch more less interesting animals. Luckily, the ranger’s last cell phone ring was to inform him that elephants had been spotted right outside the hotel! We trekked back up the same path we hiked down and were face to face with two wild elephants. Me and Katie kept creeping closer and closer to the wild beasts until
the elephant turned toward us and threatened to charge. The ranger instinctively drew his gun on the great beast and we instinctively got the fuck away from the elephants.

After lunch we rented bicycles and within a minute my chain had fallen off and the brakes stopped working. We both fell off our bikes but eventually made it to the closest village: Larabanga. Larabanga is an interesting small village where everyone is Muslim and they speak their own unique language. The focal point of the village is an ancient mosque replicating Sudanese architecture supposedly built in 1421, making it the oldest extant building in Ghana.

Survived the bike trip back to Mole just in time to see a group of monkeys playing outside our room. They allowed us to get within a few feet of them and we watched them chase each other in circles, pick bugs out off each other’s backs, and jerk off. So like us.

23rd – Woke up at 3:45am to catch the only bus out of the park which leaves at 4am and it incredibly left on-time. Northern Ghana has its own unique climate and it was freezing outside in the early morning. Shortly into the ride the bus stopped and herded us onto a bigger bus amidst mass confusion and angry passengers. We surrendered to the flow as usual and had to trust our bags would follow us but were actually handed money as we boarded the bus (a first)!

A peace corp friend of mine has been developing an eco-tourist village tour program so we gladly called the guide to check it out. It turned out to be the highlight of the trip and really is worthy of its own blog entry but here’s a brief explanation anyway. Our guide, Walisu, was so grateful for our participation and all the villagers were terribly welcoming and happy to see us. We had visited the eco-tourist project with two Obruni girls that we had met and most of the older men assumed that I was touring their village with my three wives. We were shown demonstrations in pottery, shea butter extraction, and palm nut oil distillation. Then, we visited the home of the oldest woman in the village who, despite her age, occupies her day with the tedious task of spinning cotton by hand. Her wasted shaking hands produced about a dollar of profit in 2 weeks and I was compelled to purchase some cotton from her to always remember the deplorable sight. Throughout our excursion a steady beat and faint chants could be heard from a distance. Walisu informed us that the community had organized for their weekly dancing and drumming. We asked him if we could watch and as he excitedly led us toward the music he turned to me and said, “I can tell you are a good dancer. I can’t wait to see you move.” I tried to explain to him that I lacked moves and that I was in fact moveless, but he refused to listen. My palms turned clammy and my heart matched the intensifying drum beat as we neared the celebration. Walisu had to ask the chief if we could attend the session and the man ceremonially handed us a kola nut to welcome us. The men all wore Bimnaa traditional aprons that accentuated every twist of their bodies as they performed their dance. Dust engulfed the dancers as a woman devotedly laid water beneath their feet. After the performance, I was given the traditional outfit and was mercilessly dragged out of my seat. I began to imitate the dance moves I had just witnessed and immediately the circle of hundreds closed in around me as they riotously cheered and shouted in enthusiasm.
Walisu told me that it is customary to show your appreciation to the musicians by paying them a small amount as you danced. The villagers pointed to the ensemble of the dozen drummer’s foreheads and I went around slapping bills to their faces. Then, I became a cheap male dancer for hire. Woman poured out of the circle to press coins against my face and body and wholly befuddled, I just kept dancing for them. At that moment Katie danced into the circle with a bill suctioned onto her forehead and with mounting enthusiasm from the crowd we placed our foreheads together to transfer the bill and in a perfect moment locked eyes and just enjoyed being in this bizarre scene together not knowing what the fuck was going on. Katie then took her turn in the middle of the circle.
I asked Walisu if the talking drums were in fact talking during my performance and he explained that the talking drums were asking me what dance I liked. I think I might have confused the drums by responding with ‘spastic white boy boogie’.

24th – Decided we wanted to make it back to Accra for Christmas and boarded a 14 hour bus ride back home. The bus played a movie that starred the Nigerian equivalent to Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen except these two twin boys deviously sabotaged their evil step-sisters relationships and then framed them for breaking the house rules which led them to be beaten by their father. Then the boys stole their father’s life savings and celebrated with a painfully long 3 minute scene of them grinding and gyrating to music on their bed. The plot must have gone over our heads because everyone hysterically laughed and we were just disturbed.

25th – Christmas was spent with my neighbors who lovingly cooked dinner. Then, we exchanged gifts and danced around the streets with sparklers singing happy birthday to Jesus.

Katie’s bug bite count: 93.

26th – On the road again. Destination: Cape Coast. Splurged on a hotel and experienced my first hot shower since I’ve been here. Took four showers.

27th – Took a day trip to the neighboring city, Elmina, to visit the oldest building in Africa and the sight of a former Portuguese turned Danish castle and horrific slave trading post. We climbed up to the Governor’s balcony where he would order all the female slaves to assemble in the courtyard and picked one to be cleaned so he could rape her to death.
Crawled into the ‘condemned cell’ where troublesome slaves were literally crammed into a tiny dark room where they were not fed and
temperatures soared. The original skull and cross bones that decorated the entrance is a testament that no one left that room alive. Next, we were shown the group cells where the slaves were forced to eat, sleep, and relieve themselves. Filled with as many bodies as the room could physically hold, a large percentage died from disease and exhaustion. Dead bodies were tied to rocks and thrown into the sea while the survivors eventually left though the Gate of No Return in the largest forced Diaspora in history.

That night, Katie hurriedly tip-toed out of the bathroom and frantically pointed to an oversized roach that had crept its way into our luxury. We both helplessly stared at it, both too squeamish to squash the infestation. After a long bout of staring, Katie threw the garbage can over it and I draped a towel over that, and we ran away screaming and shut the door.

28th – Glowing from our triumph over the cockroach we decide to take on nature by camping out in the rainforest at Kakum National Park.

But before we left, we toured the British answer to Elmina castle which was a fort with even larger cells to hold more cargo in the form of African slaves.

See future post for details on the fear that is Kakum National Park

29th – Thrilled to see another day we were rewarded with a private ‘canopy walk’ maneuvering along a series of suspended bridges 40 meters off the ground and spying on the forest below.

High-tailed it to the beautiful beaches of Axim. Opted for the ‘village rooms’ as the budget option at the hotel and learned that village rooms was not a euphemism for basic lodging but was in actuality a room in between two villagers.

Took a 2 hour canoe trip to visit a village that is built on stilts. As it turns out, the villagers had migrated from Mali centuries ago escaping conflict. They built their village on the water to protect them against attacks. Why they still are living on stilts remains unanswered.

Experienced a perfect sunset.

30th – Arrived in the coastal town of Busua. Busua is set on an attractive and safe beach that is dominated by hotels and people leaching on to the tourist industry there. The first person to greet us was a guy that referred to himself as Dan the Pancake man and made us promise to come and buy his pancakes. Later, we met a desperate man who called himself the juice man who would harass you to buy his fresh juice and became irate at every refusal. Still later, we met the Pants Man who sewed pants out of flour bags which I couldn’t resist buying. Spent the afternoon looking for the muffin man and Duff man but they remained elusive.

31st – Another New Years Eve away from home. We treated ourselves to a nice dinner and spent the night drinking at our hotel and ran out to the beach to ring in the New Year. There was no giant clock to cue in the new year and the various cliques that littered the beach failed to synchronize their watches. Over the span of 4 minutes there were 9 separate countdowns accompanied by their own fireworks. Later, Katie throws up the most expensive meal we had eaten in Ghana.

1st – Hungover, we stumble into paradise two towns over in Akwidaa. The Green Turtle is an eco-lodge set along an idyllic palm lined beach. There are about 10 bungalows that are solar powered, the shower water is recycled to water the plants, and the self composting toilets smell really bad.

Katie bite count: 121

2nd- I’m woken up early in the morning by Katie fighting with the door like a lunatic. She is pulling at the door and frantically exclaims “The key broke off in the lock and we’re locked in!!” Caring more about sleeping at that moment than our impending doom I rolled over to go back to bed but Katie pleaded for me to get up and uttered the four words that makes any trapped experience all the more excruciating: “I have to pee”. I started to crack up but I was quickly reprimanded with a stern look that implored me to get out of bed. By the time I reach the door Katie is already holding her crotch and kicking her legs high as she does her pee-pee dance around the room. Now, I just lose it and am getting tears in my eyes from laughing. Katie laughs too, but begs me not to make her laugh and make it worse. I go over to the door and sure enough the key is hopelessly jammed into the lock. I turn to Katie and as she carries on her pee-pee dance she screams, “Brian, it’s an emergency!”
I look out the window and no one is around. We were not left with many options. I start to ram my shoulders into the door to try to break the door down hoping that the entire bungalow won’t come crashing down if I succeed. Katie’s just dancing there the entire time stuck repeating a mantra of, “I gotta go, I gotta go.” As I continued to bust the door down Katie exclaims, “I can’t wait. Hurry, find me something to pee in!” I’m hysterically laughing as I glance around the room which had virtually nothing in it. The best I could do was hand her a wicker basket. Not wasting any time and not really carrying about the gaping holes in the basket she pulled down her pants and peed in the basket in the middle of our bungalow. It was then that we figured out that our room was slanted as her pee slowly trickled out of the basket and escaped out the door. A satisfied Katie stood up and told me how good that felt. We tried our best to clean up our pee stained bungalow before calling out the window and getting someone to rescue us. The lock was later fixed that night but we agreed to stop locking it.

3-6th – Go boogie boarding, hike to a secluded secret beach, and lay in the hammock enjoying the beach before heading back to Accra.

7th We celebrate Aaron’s birthday via a nice dinner that his parent’s treat us to and then rush to the airport. I grudgingly say goodbye to Katie who leaves with over 135 mosquito bites. She left me feeling homesick for the first time in Ghana. Then, I lost my phone which further added to the feeling of alienation, but at the time of writing I keep keeping on and am doing great. My new number is: 011.233.246939904

Thursday, December 14, 2006

Happy Holidays!!!

I just wanted to wish everyone happy holidays. I'll be travelling the next 3 weeks with Katie and will probably not be able to update the blog during that time.

All the best,

B.

Adaklu is our Ho



I stepped off the tro-tro and shook the leg that had been unnaturally propped on a duffel of yams for 3 long hours and waited for the feeling to come back in my foot. An elderly man, chancing that his cane would support his weight, called out, “You are welcome to Ho”. Anywhere else I would have thought he was a pimp with bad grammar, but alas, I was in the city of Ho in the beautiful lush Volta region. The Volta is a place where Mr. guidebook writer himself, Philip Briggs, claims that only 5% of tourist get the chance to experience which is a shame. Sorry old man, no time for chit-chat for I had come with my neighbor Aaron to Ho on a mission: to climb Mount Adaklu!

[Some background courtesy of Briggs] Oral tradition has it that the Ewe of Adaklu migrated to the area centuries ago, in order to escape the oppressive rule of King Agokoli in what is now Beyin. When they settled around the mountain, they slaughtered and roasted a cow, and divided out the meat –an act of sharing to which the name Adaklu refers. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: sharing is caring.

We paid an exorbitant price of $10 for a taxi to take us to the isolated village of Helekpe at the base of the great mountain. Under peace core supervision, Helekpe and the neighboring communities operate an eco-tourist project that includes cultural performance, village tours, bat caves, and a guided hike to the peak of Adaklu. I had to wash my hands just after looking at the little furry beast dangling in the grip of a passing villager and thus crossed ‘Bat Cave’ off my to-do list.

The difference between village and city life is in many ways like the differences between John and Joan Cusack: one can be loud and annoying while the other appears to be more laid back and amiable. Lets just say that they are both similar but you are not going to mistake one for the other. Even traveling 15 km outside of Ho, which is itself a very small city by western standards, the changes are dramatic. People lived in more traditional style houses, there were virtually no cars, the air felt fresh, the general pace seemed s-l-o-w, and every person that we saw greeted and welcomed us to an exhausting extent.

We found the headquarters of the project, two plastic chairs on the stoop in front of the bare structure of an undeveloped house, and we were welcomed yet again by what seemed to be the proprietor of the enterprise and our supposed tour guide. He offered us food and we were grateful to accept two egg sandwiches. Kofi, the fifteen year old guide, asked us if we’d like to be shown around the village while the food was being prepared and we had no reason to say no. The tour was, in actuality, an impromptu ‘Kofi reality tour’ as he pointed out where he goes to
school, where his house is, and the shop that his dad owned. We wanted to take pictures of the village and the mountain but our tour guide insisted that he be in all the shots. He was a fan of the dramatic poses and hurriedly ran to the camera after each picture to see the result on the digital screen – always terrifically satisfied.

We opted to return to our egg sandwiches instead of walking another 10 minutes to see his favorite chop bar. The sandwiches weren’t ready and Aaron and I debated whether or not we were really being guided all the way up the intimidating peak. I hoped that we would not be. It was already 10:30 and the sun trumped our spirits with its 90 degree rays of sunshine. After we ate the deliciousness that is a Ghanaian egg sandwich we were introduced to a different guide who was to bring us to the other village where we would begin our climb.

I think the walk to the next village is meant to weed out any potential heart attack victims for the ‘real’ climb. The dirt trail gave way to 4 foot boulders that climbed ever higher to the base of the mountain. We were not physically prepared for the trip. It took us 30 minutes to walk the same amount that a woman carrying a baby on her back and a tray of plantains on her head could do in 15. The boulders gave way to a picturesque little village of 80 residents sitting on a dramatic plateau. Christian, guide #3, was surprised to see more victims of the mountain and was on his way to church. He very politely excused himself and changed into his 50 cent t-shirt to lead us up the trail. We felt bad for that [the church thing, not the t-shirt which was sweet].

First, we had to visit the chief. Supposedly, since the chief was responsible for everyone, we had to formally meet him and allow him to determine if we were fit to climb. We were not. The chief did not speak English and we can’t speak Twi so we stared at each other until Christian explained that it is customary to dash the chief ‘whatever we feel in our heart.’ After tipping two guides and the egg man our hearts began to ache. We didn’t have any kola nuts or a bottle of schnapps to offer him so I dashed him 5,000 cedis and fled. I was just happy I didn’t hear him say ‘turn your head and cough’.

The trail that we used to hike up the mountain was the remnants of an old German mining trail. I think switchback must have made the Germans dizzy or something because right from the start the trail went straight up. After a particularly long series of quad burning boulder steps followed by rope climbing, I began to think that the guidebooks explanation of ‘reasonably’ demanding was not very reasonable at all… this was a death march. As if I needed more reminders concerning how out of shape I have become I had to wheeze my way up the hill as I watched Christian gingerly hop up the mountain in his sandals and one bagged water in hand. I was wearing hiking shoes with a backpack full of sunscreen, bugspray, and 6 bagged waters. I had already drank three but sweated out four. I began doubting my climbing abilities and looked back at Aaron for some inspiration. This is what I saw:





We clearly needed a break and somewhat embarrassed, we asked for a rest. Christian responded with words that have haunted me ever since, “there’s a place for rest up ahead… then we’ll start the climb.” Fuck me.

We rested in a little cave and summoned up some courage for the remainder, or according to Christian the beginning, of our journey. It was now so hot that I started to wonder what temperature my skin melts at. Luckily, the climb was shaded and the rest was mostly guided with rope to assist on the dreadfully steep parts. I closed my eyes and thought of my happy place (any place with an air-conditioner) and trudged on. Not before long we were perched on the peak of Adaklu, looking over the 40 villages that surround the mountain, feeling pretty damn good about ourselves. The view was pretty amazing. I asked Christian what the awesome drum beat was coming from and with deflated enthusiasm he remarked, “Church”…..awkward. I apologized again for taking him away from God and told him if it makes him feel better I wouldn’t be able to walk right again for a month. I think that just confused him.

When I was younger I visited the Indiana dunes, a fantastic scene of rolling sandy hills. I remember trying to run down a particularly steep slope only to be propelled into a vicious summersault eating sand the entire way down until I violently crashed into the people below. Getting down the mountain was kind of like that. Christian’s sister had food waiting for us in the village when we got back and we inhaled the rice while occasionally pointing to the mountain to call it our bitch.

Christian walked us back to Helekpe and we sat under a tree for a tro-tro to take us back to Ho. We sat for a long time. We sat for such a long time that we got anxious and started to walk the 15 km back to town. Note to future travelers of Helenpke: Sunday afternoons are not advantageous to catching a tro-tro back to Ho.

We were unsuccessful in waving down the three cars that passed us along the dirt road. Lack of transit did however allow me to show off my football skills to a few aspiring soccer players shown to the right. We ended up walking seven long kilometers till we reached a junction where we were slightly more likely to catch a car. We discussed whether or not we would be able to get to Accra before work if we were forced to sleep in the village. Just then, a pickup truck drove by and we asked to get in the bed of the truck. For 5,000 cedis (60 cents), our wish was granted.

More people piled into the truck so that there were 6 of us hanging onto the back. Now I can guarantee that Briggs was not sitting on the bed of a pickup truck when he wrote, “Helekpe lies about 15km from Ho along a fair dirt road.” The road was, in actuality, a bunch of little potholes which covered us in dirt and really really hurt our bums. I think this picture of Aaron says it all. The Ghanaians saw us struggling and thought the general idea of Obrunis [white people] in the back of a truck was hilarious. When we got to the main road cars honked at us with enthusiasm. Actually, it was really funny but it also was surprisingly painful. I didn’t know if I was hysterically laughing or hysterically crying but tears were definitely coming out of my eyes.

We survived the mountain and we survived the pickup truck and we got dropped off at the Accra bound bus in the station. There were seven checkpoints (read: bribe opportunists) on the way back to Accra and because a woman was transporting something without the proper paperwork we had to pay off every single stop adding an hour + to our trip. The bus was terribly crowded. At checkpoint five I began squirming and the man next to me commented that the busses aren’t as comfortable here as they are in America. You said it buddy… now get off my lap.

Thursday, November 23, 2006

And on the seventh day...

Ghana is a hodge-podge, a cocktail of different religions. However, knowingly over generalizing, Ghana is largely a Christian country. Like an old saying that described Haiti as ‘90% Catholic and 100% Voodoo many Ghanaians practice Christianity while retaining faith in their traditional religions. When I came to work wearing a bracelet that someone had given me on the street my colleagues sneered at the beads and warned me that the bracelet could be cursed.

One of the ways faith is flagrantly expressed is through the naming of the little shops that line the roads. One strip of shops in Accra reads: ‘the almighty lord – snack shop’, ‘God Bless all who provide work for me – Rubber Stamps’ ‘God’s sons electrical enterprise’ and ‘I Love Jesus Ent. Dog Food Depot’. There are also countless stalls that are identifies simply by passages from the Bible which are lost upon me being that the most formal education I had on these verses are the posters that wrestling fanatics curiously wave on giant posters when going to a match. The versatility of the bible amazes me knowing it is pertinent enough to enthusiastically quote at the precise moment when Macho Man Randy Savage is beating Hulk Hogan over the head with one of his shoes. The radio in Ghana is often tuned to one of the many stations that feed the country a healthy dose of Gospel music, preaching, and Christian talk radio. The title of the song escapes me, but there is a song with the chorus “shake your booty that Jesus gave you” that always uplifts my spirits and gets the tro-tro singing along. The vendor’s sales chants and the mates of the tro-tros hawking mantras are often besieged by men with megaphones passionately filling the stations and markets with the sound of Jesus. I cringe when a preacher boards my bus and doesn’t stop reciting verses until our destination but I am the minority, and the passengers are usually responsive to even the most uninspiring. The back of taxis and tro-tros proudly display the vague and not so vague references to their faith in bold yellow letters such as ‘jesus wins’ ‘be good’ ‘don’t be surprised’ ‘faith in Jah’ ‘Gods time is good time’ ‘except (which I think might supposed to be accept but I’m not sure), etc, etc. And, Sundays remain the only time when the restless and welcoming city of Accra seeks its solitude.


In fact, my first Sunday in Ghana I went with Auntie Theo to church. We went to the ‘late’ service at 9am and by the time we arrived the full piece band and 40 person choir were already feverishly doing their part to lift the crowd on their feet, sing, and shout. There were thousands of worshippers in the Church and hundreds more outside watching on big screen televisions. Occasionally someone would dance down the aisle or spontaneously and singularly shout out praise but mostly those in attendance managed to form a single cohesive entity that clapped in rhythm, danced in synch, sang in tune, and prayed in unison and I tried to carry on but struggled to keep my anonymity amidst it all. Towards the end of the service the pastor asked all those who were new to the church to stand up and my perspiration and short breaths announced my fear to the congregation. I thought about remaining in my seat but I figured that the crowd would probably be able to tell that the small white Jewish American wasn’t a lifetime member, so for the first time in the service I addressed God – to pray that I wasn’t the only newcomer. My prayers were answered and out of the thousands, two other men cautiously stood. Those around me all personally welcomed me and I have to admit that it really did feel special… but not special enough to accept the pastor’s invitation to hold a special prayer after the service for all those new to the flock.

I am usually cynical when it comes to religion, but I have discovered the importance of faith. This became evident when working with social workers around the Aguglushi market and visiting the ruins of people’s makeshift homes that had been razed by fire months ago. These people lost all their possessions and a few of them were still sleeping on the ground beside their salvaged property; a small blue tarp that twisted in the wind providing the only shelter from the elements. It had rained the night before and the ground was now mud. For them, Religion is the one thing they still have.

Again, I am not the most religious person but Christianity abound, I sought out the only known Jewish community in Ghana. Gratefully, we stopped in Kumasi, the capital of the Ashanti Region, after a five hour bus ride where I seemed to occupy the only seat without a working air conditioner and I had to peel myself off the seat when we arrived. I was traveling with Johanna, a study abroad student who was writing a research paper on the connections between Israel and Ghana. Our destination: Sefwi Wiawso.

One phrase that tends to come up over and over again is ‘wow, it’s really a small world.’ The farther I travel the more pertinent this saying becomes. Well the world shrinks ever smaller when you are speaking of the Jewish people where you can run into any other Jew in the world and play six degrees of Joushua Goldstein. Johanna and I were checking into our hotel when a friend from the States had called my mobile and I explained to her that I was going to Sefwi Wiawso and a man sitting in the lobby said ‘I’m going to Sefwi’ and so started a pattern until we were traveling to the village as a group of seven. Typical to Ghanaian travel none of us had any concrete directions to the settlement, but we were armed with a name of one of the religious leaders which is usually suitable since Ghanaians all seem to know each other somehow and are pretty adept at six degrees of Kofi Nkrumah. Of course, if that failed, wandering in the desert-like heat is in our ancestral blood and we were prepared for that too.

Indeed, someone at the tro-tro station knew the spot and when a man greeted us with ‘Shalom’ we knew we had made it. We were warmly welcomed with beverages and a snack and as we noshed we discussed the history of the community. Sometimes it can be difficult for me to understand Ghanaians. Even if we are speaking in English both our accents can be an impediment to any fruitful dialogue and some things get lost in translation. Joshua, a middle-aged man of the community, kept referring to his grandparents and brothers and it became increasingly difficult to discern whether grandparents meant ancestors or his parent’s parents and whether brother meant his sibling or all the Jewish people as both meanings were used interchangeably. So basically, I sat there not knowing if we were talking about biblical times or the 1960’s and enjoyed my snack. When I couldn’t make sense of what was going on I stole glances of the rest of the village, tucked away in a lush valley, forming a striking scenery. For more information about the history of the 15 family strong Jewish community you can visit Kulanu.org, an organization that is dedicated to finding and assisting lost and dispersed remnants of the Jewish people, and they can fill in the details.

The sun soon set and Shabbat was upon us. All seven of us stayed with one of the leaders of the community’s house and they couldn’t have been more hospitable (something I am really starting to take for granted here). A small service with the family was held around the dinner table. The prayers were in English, Hebrew, and Twi. There was no electricity and the two Shabbat candles remained the sole source of light casting shadows that accentuated our modest ceremony. It felt quite special to be in a stranger’s home in such a foreign place and yet be reciting the same songs and prayers I have known all my life. I would have stayed up and played with the kids a little bit but I was preoccupied with thoughts of the egg sandwich swimming in a vat of oil that I ate from a street vendor earlier in the day in Kumasi. It was one of those times that even as you were eating it you are telling yourself ‘this is going to make me so sick’ and sure enough it did.

All was well in the morning, and as a group we walked for fifteen minutes until we came upon the one room basic structure that was the synagogue. Some other members of the community were there already and men had occupied one side, women the other. About 15 children reserved the first two rows and they were already participating in an impromptu lesson from one of the elders. The congregation did not have a rabbi but did have Alex, a young charismatic devoted man, who led the service. He recently tried to go to Israel to study and become ordained, but was refused a visa. There seemed to be about 30 people total in attendance and while some of the songs had a distinct African beat and the Old Testament was read in Twi, the service was also distinctively Jewish.

Admittedly, the whole thing was just bizarre. Where did these people come from? How does this community really start? Hundreds of visitors have seemed to come over the years and it is hard to tell how culturally sensitive one should be and how much these visitors have shaped the practices of these people. This is a community with its own beliefs and its own customs. Do they really want to assimilate into the global Jewish population? Do they want our suggestions (as some of my travel-mates made) on things that they can add to their service? One woman I was with had generously given them menorahs, dreidels and books about Judaism and I wondered whether this was something they ever asked for. Will adopting all these outside influences weaken their own faith and lose their sense of origin and identity. Or, will these gifts make them feel more welcomed and closer to the rest of the Jewish world? I myself gave them a menorah I had received for my Bar-Mitzvah and they seemed to genuinely appreciate not only all the gifts but the suggestions of additional prayers that could be added to the service. How much of this was just hospitality and how much was genuine we may never know.

After services I walked with Samuel, a young boy from the congregation ‘into town’ to pick up some yams and water for lunch. Into town was apparently a 45 minute hike uphill in the midday sun and I was shvitsing so much people kept offering me their handkerchiefs. By the time I got back, Luba, an NYU student, was already packing to head out back to Accra and I decided to accompany her.

We got to the station in Sefwi just in time to see a Kumasi bound tro-tro leave. It was 3:00 and we were worried that we would be stuck in Kumasi for the evening. I asked the driver when the next tro-tro would leave and he said two hours – a crushing blow to hopes of sleeping in our own bed. I then asked him what time he thought it would leave and he said 3:45 – a strange sense of hope. Luba suggested we go have a beer and not being one to turn down a drink followed her to a local spot. Yada Yada Yada we got drunk on beer and plastic satchels of gin that were about 10 cents and curiously labeled as a sports drink with happy little soccer players on it as we performed a frenzied little dance of running to and from the station and bar only to narrowly miss transport to the city and soaking up our frustrations with more libation. We missed two more tro-tros. When we finally boarded a bus we only survived for 30 minutes before Luba pleaded “Driver, I have to Urinate”. God bless that girl. She squirmed past laughing Ghanaians, went behind the tro-tro, pulled up her skirt, and pissed alongside the road.

Kwaku, an incredibly kind man who had saved us a spot on the tro-tro from Sefwi insisted that he escort us to our Accra bound bus and soon we were on our way home. This time the bus was painfully cold – the mate was wearing a damn winter jacket and I occupied my time contorting my body to hide as much skin under my shorts and t-shirt. A preacher boarded the bus and started a sermon as if to deliver confirmation that we weren’t in Sefwi anymore.